APPLICATION:  
My car is a 1996 V-6.  The '96 GT comes with the same bumper and driving lights.  The V-6 light openings are fitted with blank-out plastic plates.

TOOLS REQUIRED:  
Usual mechanical tools plus a basic Dremel variable speed tool, a good soldiering iron, and electrical crimp pliers.     

TIME REQUIRED:
I invested about six hours in this project. 

COST OF THIS PROJECT: 
The Rally driving lights model 3255 were $42.95, the black crinkle paint $12.95, the wiring (approximately) $7, and the various electrical connections (approximately) $2 – for a total of $64.90. 

WHERE TO GET THE PARTS:
I purchased the lights from a local auto parts store and the crinkle paint from a Harley Davidson dealer.  You can find crinkle paint for less, but I went with the higher cost because I had previous experience with the Harley Davidson product and knew how it would perform. 

WHY MAKE THIS MODIFICATION?
To make the car look better and to provide supplemental lighting when desired. 

WHAT I ACCOMPLISHED:  
A better looking car. 

PHOTOS:
1. The parts, template, and bumper block-out panel
 

2. The panels with the initial opening cut

3. The cut for the light mount

4. The panels were sprayed with flat black crinkle paint

5. The panels after they dried with one light bracket installed

6. The lights ready for installation

7. The light installed

8.  The front of my Mustang with the lights installed.  You will note a second set of lights.  These were installed some time ago and are of a light plastic attached to the bumper cover with heavy-duty double-sided auto molding tape.  Both sets of lights are wired in series, which may not be legal in all areas.
 

HOW I COMPLETED THE MODIFICATION:
I removed the two blank-out panels from the front bumper.  Next, I created a template using one of the lights as a guide.  I then outlined my desired opening on the blank-out panels using the template and a WhiteOut brand typing correction pen.   

Using a Dremel tool fitted with a cutting disc, I made initial cuts just inside the template line.  Then, I used the Dremel tool fitted with a sanding disc to shape the openings.  I finished the openings by hand sanding.  Finally, I painted the panels with flat black crinkle paint. 

After the panels dried for a day, I installed the lights in the panels and reinstalled the panels in the front bumper.  Then, it was time to wire the lights.  I am not going to go into the wiring procedure in detail.  Chances are anyone willing to tackle projects requiring wiring already knows wiring basics.  For anyone that does not and wants to learn, there are many good books and manuals available.  Check out your local library, or contact Motor Books at 1-800-826-6600 or through their web site www.motorbooks.com.   

My lights operate from an ashtray mounted switch plate.  The construction of that switch plate is covered in another article on this web site.  Power was obtained from the hot lead to the lighter.  The lighter having been eliminated in the ashtray switch plate modification.  The fuse that originally protected the lighter circuit now protects the driving light circuit.  For added protection, I also installed a relay in the line.   

If you do not like the looks of what I did, you can purchase factory Ford GT lights complete with mounting brackets for around $150.  On some V-6 Mustangs, the '96s for sure, the factory wiring for the driving lights will already be in place on each end of the bumper and under the center counsel.  You can use that wiring with a switch kit available from your local Ford dealer.  The switch replaces one of the coin holders in the center console.  I choose to wire individually to avoid the factory lighting sequence, which does things like not allowing the driving lights to be on with the high-beams.   

Last, be sure to make a diagram of how you completed the wiring job including an indication of the color of each wire.