Sixpackstang's Official Split Port Swap Post

[sixpackstang]

This is a very commonly asked question, so I did a write up with everything I could think of to help someone considering or doing a split port swap. I hope the mods will sticky this, it would help a lot of people out...

What are the differences between single port and split port?

To start we will discuss the differences between the 3.8 v6 motors. The 94-98 v6's are equipped with single port heads, lower intake, and upper intake; these have one intake runner per cylinder. On the 99-04 v6's, Ford switched to a split port design, which has two runners per cylinder.

From the factory, the split port design gave the v6 an additional 40hp, so some people with 94-98's like to swap their singleport heads and intakes for the split port. Doing this is a very custom setup, and there are some modifications that will need to be made. I will discuss these later.

What parts are needed for a split port swap?

Here is to the best of my knowledge a complete list of parts needed for a split port swap:

heres the parts list:
-97+ f-150 V6 heads or 99+ mustang v6 heads (including valves/springs)
-97+ f-150 v6 lower intake, or 99+ v6 mustang lower intake *
-99+ mustang v6 upper intake **
-99+ mustang EGR tube and valve (f-150 tube will work)
-99+ Throttle Body
-TPS sensor for TB (1-CX-1488 from Ford) if not already on TB
-Throttle cable from 99+ mustang v6
-Modified fuel rail that has a universal fuel pressure regulator, and a return line. (available from SteveC) ***
-Accelerator Bracket (F4SZ-9728-B) if not already included on upper intake
-99+ mustang v6 coil pack and wires (your stock coil pack will work too)
-99+ mustang intake tube, or any 99+ mustang CAI kit
-99+ mustang cooling hoses (including the ones going to the heater core) and pipes. You can also make your own lines, by using plumbing elbows,hoses and clamps, and fab it up yourself. (Definately get these if you can.)
-16 a.w.g automotive electrical wire
-teflon tape, pipe sealant, RTV
-99+ head bolts/studs
-head gaskets (I recommend 99+ mustang gaskets)
-99+ upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.
-99+TB gasket
-94-98 IAC gasket
-94-98 valve cover gaskets(reuse the 94-98 valve covers, valve cover gaskets can be reused if removed carefully)
-94-98 exhaust header/manifold gaskets
-you can reuse the 94-98 headers ****
-use the 94-98 IAC since the 99+ IAC has a different connector (Edit: I found that the IAC I used from a 99 mustang had the SAME connector. I am not sure about other years or F150's/windstarts, but the 99 IAC will work and I recommend using it for a cleaner looking install.)
-rad fluid, oil, filter, new spark plugs
-gasket remover, thinner to prep parts before applying new gaskets

* There are 3 different types of lower intakes you could use; these would be the 97+ F150 lower, the 99-00 lower, and the 01-04 lower. Each has its ups and downs, but I would recommend going with a 99-00 lower. Here are the differences:
The F150 and 01-04 lowers have IMRC's in the lower intake which will need to be removed, and the holes JB welded shut since the 94-98 ECU's don't have the ability to control these. The 99-00 lowers don't have these, and therefor you will have no modding to do.
The 94-98 lowers have 2 water temp sensors that go into the lower intake. The F150 lower also has 2 locations for these sensors on the lower, no problem there. The 99-04 lowers only have one water temp sensor and will need to be modified to work. You can do this by drilling/tapping a hole for another sensor in the lower before it's put on. There is a good spot for doing this and I will try to get pics later. Any machine shop could do this, and others have had it done for $5-10.
If you use an F150 lower, you will need to run custom cooling hoses. The F150 hoses won't work, and the 99-04 mustang cooling hoses won't work with the F150 lower. If you are using the 99-04 lower, the cooling hoses will fit and work fine.
My personal opinion would be to use a 99-00 lower, but all will work with some modification.
**There is a slight difference between the 99-00 upper intake and the 01-04 upper intake. The 99-00 upper has 4 holes for the coil pack to be mounted, vs. only 3 on the 01-04. If you can get the 99-00 upper it will be easier to mount your stock coil pack.
***The 94-98 mustangs use a return style fuel system, and the 99-04's use a returnless style. Therefor the 99+ fuel rail will need to be modified with a return fuel line. As noted above, SteveC on this board is again offering to make custom fuel rails for split port swaps.
****You can reuse the 94-98 headers, but you may run into trouble with hooking up the egr tube. I believe it mounts into a different location on the 99+ exhaust manifold and may not fit. You would need to have this customized to fit, or to use the 99+ exhaust manifolds/gaskets. I am not certain as I deleted the egr when I did my swap.

How difficult is it to do a split port swap?

A good bit of mechanical ability is needed to do this. If you don't usually work on your own car, this is not a good place to start learning. On a difficulty level of 1-10, I would rate this about a 6.5. You will be going pretty deep into your engine, and because it is a custom setup it can be tricky. From start to stop, this project took me about 3 full days of working (by myself though, extra hands would've helped at many points) plus driving to get odds and ends I didn't account for.

You will need basic tools such as metric and standard socket sets, swivel joints, extensions, wrenches, screwdrivers, a torque wrench in ft/lbs, (also a smaller torque wrench in inch/lbs is helpful but not necessary), wire cutters, butt connectors for the wires or a soldering gun, and plenty of patience. You will also need special tools for removing the fuel lines from the stock fuel rail. (AutoZone should have these)

There is also a video made by V6Sprout from v6power.net that is a step by step guide to doing the split port swap. It is very helpful and I would recommend it to anyone doing the swap or even considering it. Watching the video could help you determine if you think you can do the swap yourself or not. (I no longer have or sell copies of the tapes. The copies were not turning out good and I sold my original copy to someone else.)

How much will a split port swap cost me?

This is just a quick list of what it cost me to do my swap. It may cost you more or less depending on where you get your parts. Places to look for parts? Try the for sale boards here or any other v6 site like v6power.net. Also ebay or a salvage yard might be useful.

-Heads, intakes, modified fuel rail, cooling pipes/hoses, most of the other small parts needed. I bought these for $500. A bulk of the cost here is in the custom fuel rail. I'm not sure what SteveC will be selling his for. Check ebay, junkyards, and the For Sale forums here and at v6power.net for these parts.
-Throttle body, sensors on TB, throttle cable. $50
-99+ cold air intake. $50 (you can avoid this cost by using the stock 99+ plastic intake)
-Gaskets, head bolts, plugs, wires. $200
-Oil, filter, antifreeze. $30 (you can reuse your antifreeze if its new/still good)

Grand total around $800 for the complete swap.

This is all the information I have right now on doing the split port swap, and hope this helps you out. If you have any questions feel free to contact me and I'll see if I can help you out.

Mods: I think this would be a good idea to sticky this info. I put countless hours of researching all this info. from different sites and it was difficult to find answers for a lot of the little questions I had about different parts. There are tons of people making posts about how to do a split port swap etc. and I think this could eliminate them and help encourage more people to try this.

[hitmankb]

Steve no longer make the modified fuel rails as far as I know.

[sixpackstang]

I saw him make a post in the for sale forum just a couple days/weeks ago that he would be making them again. I sent him a PM to see if he still is going to make them, for how much, and if its alright if I put him in the post.

[SteveC]

I have restarted making them. I was able to find new suppliers for some parts to streamline them. I have to have a 99+ rail supplied to make the rail though and at least half up front since I have to order non-returnable items.

Prices depend on a couple options. If anyone is interested, please email me at scaddell@cinci.rr.com

If someone is immediately interested, please let me know since I will be ordering parts to make one early next week and will order additional supplies if need be.

Thanks
Steve

[bluetuesday13]

im interested, but i dont think im competent to do the swap

[sixpackstang]

Originally Posted by bluetuesday13

im interested, but i dont think im competent to do the swap

Well, are you at least handy with tools and capable of doing the physical work yourself? To be honest I really had no idea what I was doing until I watched the video, I'd never done anything like this to an engine before. But after I watched it I figured I would be able to do it fine and I did.

Your best bet is to first figure out if you are going to be able to afford everything, then get the video before you buy anything and watch it. If you think it's going to be something you can handle, do it. If not then figure out what other options you might have like getting someone to help you out.

[bluetuesday13]

thanks. how can i get this video?

[sixpackstang]

I can get you a copy for $15. Just shoot me a PM if you're interested.

[1996mustang96]

I wish that the copy i bought from you helped me but it didn't. The quality is very poor, all black and white, and the picture can't be corrected by tracking. You can;t tell one thing from the other on the video. I'm not knocking you just saying that you should make sure that the tapes record well before you send them. I see mine as a wasted 20 dollars because of the quaility, even though the words that i here inform me some. Now as for stevec's fuel rail, you can't ask for any better. The swap can be done, just with patients and modifications, depending on what intake that you use. Also make sure that the intakes that you buy have everything included. I got gipped when buying mine from a popular company for used parts (not saying the name). They sold me everything i asked for and didn't bother to tell me that the intakes didn't have any brackets with it. I'm just trying to help anyone that is doing the swap. Make sure that it is what you want to do. Also, i'm still having trouble trying to figure out how to get the connectors off of the end of the fuel rail and put them on my new rail.

[InitialG]

You should tell the people on the boards the name of the company so fellow v6ers can avoid them.

[sixpackstang]

Originally Posted by 1996mustang96

I wish that the copy i bought from you helped me but it didn't. The quality is very poor, all black and white, and the picture can't be corrected by tracking. You can;t tell one thing from the other on the video. I'm not knocking you just saying that you should make sure that the tapes record well before you send them.

Hey man I'm really sorry, I didn't know the tape didn't turn out too well. I appologize. I sent you a PM hopefully we can work this out. I know even the tape I got was a copy of a copy and it was hard to tell a lot of the details of the engine. I am looking to see if I can find someone with a more original copy, then trying to get it and put it on DVD.

I'm not out to make money on these tapes, I only want to help people out. I think since the quality is not the best I am going to lower the price to just enough to cover the cost of tapes/shipping, and my time running around to send them out.

[bluetuesday13]

Originally Posted by 1996mustang96

I wish that the copy i bought from you helped me but it didn't. The quality is very poor, all black and white, and the picture can't be corrected by tracking. You can;t tell one thing from the other on the video. I'm not knocking you just saying that you should make sure that the tapes record well before you send them. I see mine as a wasted 20 dollars because of the quaility, even though the words that i here inform me some. Now as for stevec's fuel rail, you can't ask for any better. The swap can be done, just with patients and modifications, depending on what intake that you use. Also make sure that the intakes that you buy have everything included. I got gipped when buying mine from a popular company for used parts (not saying the name). They sold me everything i asked for and didn't bother to tell me that the intakes didn't have any brackets with it. I'm just trying to help anyone that is doing the swap. Make sure that it is what you want to do. Also, i'm still having trouble trying to figure out how to get the connectors off of the end of the fuel rail and put them on my new rail.

How much did u pay?

[1996mustang96]

No problem man, its just that i was disappointed when i was watching the tape. Thats a fine price but it would be better if the quality was better. I just couldn't tell what they were doing on the parts that i needed help with, my luck huh. No prob.

[Silentst2000]

I have a 01 splitport motor that used to have a aod-e attached to it. This engine is complete down to mass air and wiring harness with 15k miles on.

I want to swap it into a 94 v6 but I'm having a hard time finding out what all I need. I'm sure I'm going to need an 01 flywheel but will my clutch, pressure plate and bell housing work? Also, Since the wiring harness is for an AOD-E, will it now be incomptabile with my 5 speed car? Other than this part, I think I have rest of the swap down as what to need.

Also, is there any aftermarket clutch,flywheel,pressure plates for these engines?

[taylor0987]

Originally Posted by Silentst2000

I have a 01 splitport motor that used to have a aod-e attached to it. This engine is complete down to mass air and wiring harness with 15k miles on.

I want to swap it into a 94 v6 but I'm having a hard time finding out what all I need. I'm sure I'm going to need an 01 flywheel but will my clutch, pressure plate and bell housing work? Also, Since the wiring harness is for an AOD-E, will it now be incomptabile with my 5 speed car? Other than this part, I think I have rest of the swap down as what to need.

Also, is there any aftermarket clutch,flywheel,pressure plates for these engines?

The transmission wiring harness is not involved unless you are swapping transmissions. You will need to modify the engine harness. You need a custom fuel rail. If you are using the 99+ injectors and/or MAF then you need a custom chip made. If you stay with the 94 injectors, then that could limit your power.

I think you are correct about the 01 flywheel (needed to match the balance of your block & rotating assembly) and that the other clutch-related parts should be good. But it might be a good idea to put in a new clutch while you have easy access.

[Silentst2000]

actualy I have been driving around in my 94 3.8 with my 01 MAS with no problems and no loss of fuel economy (that I can tell of at least). If I do use the larger injectors I'd have to get a new chip burnt for it. I knew I would need a new fuel rail but what needs modified on the main engine harness? The one from the 94 or the one from the 01?

[SteveC]

You'll only need the 01 harness for scalping a few ends, other than that use the 94 harness. Once you put it back together, it's obvious what part of the harness needs modified... you just have to extend the plugs on a couple items and that is where using the spares from the 01 harness comes into play.

You will need a chip to use anything other than the stock 94 injectors.

Using the 01 MAF with computer changes is a VERY bad idea, IMO. You may think it is running well, but you may be starving yourself of HP or causing damage.

[taylor0987]

Originally Posted by Silentst2000

actualy I have been driving around in my 94 3.8 with my 01 MAS with no problems and no loss of fuel economy (that I can tell of at least). If I do use the larger injectors I'd have to get a new chip burnt for it. I knew I would need a new fuel rail but what needs modified on the main engine harness? The one from the 94 or the one from the 01?

This is what I had to do on my 94. You should modify the harness once the engine is installed and you have almost everything on except for the upper intake. That way you can make sure everything reaches. It is easier if you decide to delete EGR.

1. Unwrap tape and loom starting where it splits going to each side of the block. Spread sides apart so all injector connectors reach. You will need to lengthen some wires (it will be obvious which ones when you spread the wires-- but I had to do a red one, and two gray with red stripe)
2. Move coil pack connector to driver side. You may want to shorten those wires, but otherwise it is just a matter of untangling them from the other wires. (Some people cut and lengthened to do this, but on the two 94-95 harnesses that I worked with, there was plenty of wire once you spread things apart.)
3. Change IAC connector to match new IAC.
4. Lengthen EVR and DPFE wires. (not necessary if you are deleting EGR)
5. I think some people needed to lengthen the #1 injector connector-- I didn't because I split the sides apart enough in step 1.
6. If you are using the 99+ style injectors, then you will need to change all 6 of the injector connectors over to the new ones. (I used old style 24# injectors)
7. If you are using a newer MAF, then change that connector. (I used my stock MAF)
8. Wrap everything back up with tape and loom.

[SteveC]

Taylor has the details down... good info.

[Silentst2000]

Is there any companys that make aftermarket flywheels, clutches, etc for these engines? I see centerforce makes a clutch. Is there anyone else?

[RED94]

I'm doing the 99v6 into my 94. Can anyone tell me what mods need to be done to the fuel rail? I have both 94 & 99 rails. Can the 99 pressure reg. be used ( chrome onethat is just past the connector & do I use the old 94 return line with what looks like a vacuum controlled reg. as well as the 99 chrome one? Does anyone have a modified one they want to sell?
While I'm at it, I am thinking about installing 1.6 or 1.7? rockers. What increase in HP should I expect? Anyone have a used set of roller rockers? I imagine I would have to have a custom chip made up for the computer? This is my first post as a new member.

[SteveC]

The 99+ rail does not have a pressure regulator. It has a sending unit that goes to EEC that changes the voltage to the 99+ pump. And the pressure regulator from a 94-98 will not work on the 99+ rail.

I make custom fuel rails for split port swaps... email me at scaddell@cinci.rr.com if you are interested.

It is recommended to get a chip...

[taylor0987]

Originally Posted by RED94

While I'm at it, I am thinking about installing 1.6 or 1.7? rockers. What increase in HP should I expect?

1.6 would probably make you lose HP because stock is 1.73. You would want either 1.73 and 1.8 rollers.

[RED94]

I'm a do it yourselfer so am still looking for info on how to modify my 99 fuel rail to fit the 94 fuel/return lines. What regulator do i need? Can I just cut return line from 94 rail, add a reg. & weld it onto the 99 rail? Detailed info. would be much appreciated.

[sixpackstang]

I'm sorry I can't help out much with the topic of the fuel rail, I bought mine already modified. I think you have the basic idea down with the return line. My rail I bought I was able to take the fuel pressure regulator off my 97 and use it on the modified one. I think they cut and welded the return line on, but not 100% sure how/where to put it so that it works right.

Hopefully SteveC will chime in on this one. Or better yet just PM him and ask him.

[bluetuesday13]

what modifications need to be made to a 2002 intake (upper + lower) besides the imrc's?

[sixpackstang]

Originally Posted by bluetuesday13

what modifications need to be made to a 2002 intake (upper + lower) besides the imrc's?

You will need to get two holes drilled/tapped for temp sensors on the lower intake. I'll try and get some pics of where to tap them.

The easiest way to go about doing this is to have holes drilled and tapped into the lower intake that you can screw the sensors into. I believe the tap you will need for this is a "plumbing" or "tapered" 5/8" tap. Double check before you tap it though, your tap should screw into the temp sensor holes from your old intake no problem.

If I were you I would try and get a 99-00 upper/lower. The lower will only need one hole tapped for temp sensor and the upper you will be able to mount your coil pack to it no problem. I know the 01+ upper is slightly different and I'm not sure if it will mount in the stock location. You might need to come up with your own place to mount it.


Here are some pics. The first one shows the one temp sensor on the 99-00 lower that is not there on the 01+. You should drill/tap it in that location though. The second one shows the difference in the upper intakes. 4 mounting holes on 99-00, 3 on 01+.

[Silentst2000]

Has anyone else done what this guy did to keep IMRC's working?

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6680

[sixpackstang]

Originally Posted by Silentst2000

Has anyone else done what this guy did to keep IMRC's working?

http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6680

I haven't seen anyone else do that. If you ask me it's a lot easier just to get a lower intake from 99-00 mustang that doesn't have them in the first place. They really don't make that much of a difference and I don't think its worth it to even bother hooking them up.

[Silentst2000]

Well if it wasn't worth the performance then why did Ford put them in there?